A collar should admit two flat fingers between it and the neck, no more and no fewer. A cat's collar must be the kind that breaks open under a snag, and a lead is never attached to it. A harness should sit behind the shoulder, not across it, so the leg swings freely. A coat needs three measurements, neck, chest and back, and must let the animal sit, lie and run before it is called finished.

Three measurements, taken standing

Use a soft tape, with the animal standing square and relaxed, and measure twice.

  1. Neck. Around the neck where a collar naturally sits, a little below the ears and above the shoulders, snug against the fur but not pressing it.
  2. Chest. Around the deepest part of the ribcage, just behind the front legs. This is the measurement that decides whether a coat or harness fits at all.
  3. Back. From the base of the neck, where the collar sits, to the base of the tail. A coat is cut to this length or a touch shorter; it should never reach the tail.

Note the coat type as well: a long or double coat compresses under a garment, and a fitting on a freshly groomed animal will differ from one on a full coat.

The collar

Two flat fingers should slide between collar and neck. Looser, and a dog backs out of it; tighter, and it rubs. Check again as a puppy grows, after a grooming, and in a breed whose neck is wider than its head, where a harness is often the better choice for walking in any case.

For a cat, the rule is different and not negotiable. A cat climbs, squeezes and jumps, and a collar that cannot open under a snag can hang it. Only a collar with a breakaway or quick-release closure should ever be worn, fitted so that it opens under the cat's own weight, and a lead is never attached to a cat's collar. A cat walks, if it walks at all, in a harness.

The harness

A harness is judged at the shoulder. The front strap should sit on the breastbone and the side straps should run behind the point of the shoulder, leaving a clear Y so the leg swings through its full stride. A strap across the shoulder joint shortens the step and, worn daily, changes the way an animal moves. The girth strap sits a hand's width behind the front legs, with the same two-finger allowance. For a cat, an H-style or soft vest harness fitted close enough that it cannot be wriggled out of, introduced indoors over several days, and never used to lift.

The coat

A coat is fitted at the chest first, then the neck, then the length. It should close under the belly without pulling, leave the front legs free to the shoulder, stop short of the tail, and leave the hindquarters uncovered so that nothing is in the way when the animal relieves itself. Then the test, in this order: the animal sits, and the coat does not ride up over the neck; the animal lies down, and nothing bunches or binds; the animal runs, and the coat stays put without flapping. If any one fails, the coat is not finished.

How to tell it is wrong

An animal rarely complains in words. It freezes, walks oddly, licks or chews at a strap, rolls to get a garment off, or simply refuses to move. Any of these is a fitting problem until proven otherwise. Take the piece off, check for rubbed fur or red skin, and try again with an adjustment or a different size. Redness that persists is a matter for your veterinary surgeon.

How the atelier fits

Atelier Pelisse fits to the animal rather than the photograph. A bespoke commission begins with the three measurements above, taken at a private appointment in London or Dubai or guided by video, and ends with the sit, lie, run test in front of you. Fit adjustments in the first week of wear are included. Ready-to-wear pieces are graded from the same measurements, and the concierge will tell you which size to try before anything is sent.

Sources: general guidance from veterinary and animal-welfare bodies on collar fit, breakaway collars for cats and harness design; the Maison's welfare charter and atelier fitting notes. This article is educational and is not veterinary advice.